Icy blue waterfall

LGBTQ Friendly Iceland

When I arrived in Iceland on the red-eye from Boston, it was still dark. The sky lightened as I drove toward Reykjavik. I still remember my first glimpse of the country. Taking in the strange, lunar-looking rock formations pitted with holes and flecked with mosses and lichens, I was fascinated. Iceland was so unlike the landscapes of New England I grew up with.

I was fascinated with the strange new world I was about to explore.

Since that first trip to Iceland, I’ve been back. I love Iceland’s proximity to the US, its accessibility and that amazing landscape.

Give me a week in Iceland and I’ll drive around, taking photographs of incredible rock formations, iced-over waterfalls, and shaggy-haired Icelandic horses and be perfectly content.

I joke that the Iceland tourism bureau should pay me (they don’t), because I’ve spent so much time talking about my amazing Iceland vacations that I’ve inspired a half-dozen people to plan their own trips.

Read on for my LGBTQ guide to Iceland, which includes my itineraries, helpful travel tips, and a few of my favorite Iceland photos.

LGBT Rights in Iceland

Iceland may not have a big Pride scene, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t LGBTQ friendly. Iceland is one of the friendliest destinations I’ve been to, even if they only have one queer bar to explore.

Same-sex marriage is legal in Iceland.

So is changing your gender, with or without affirming surgeries.

Nonbinary Icelanders can get recognized with a third-gender marker.

Conversion therapy is banned throughout the country, and Icelanders are protected from employment discrimination based on gender and sexuality.

Equaldex lists more information about LGBTQ rights in Iceland if you want to dive into the nitty gritty.

Legal protections like these mean LGBT Icelanders have a high quality of life.

They also indicate that LGBT tourists won’t be discriminated against, scrutinized for not conforming to binary gender norms, or subject to harassment for our identities, since the locals are used to people like us.

The best places in Iceland if you’re LGBTQ tend to be cities like Reykjavik and Akureyri. These have larger populations and more nightlife to explore. Not to mention, world-famous geothermal lagoons. Check out my guides to these LGBTQ-friendly cities, which include LGBTQ-friendly hotels and things to do:

However, smaller cities and towns are also welcoming. On my most recent trip, I spotted a gender neutral bathroom in the small town of Hvammastangi!

While Iceland is among the most inclusive places I’ve visited, there are some areas where Iceland can do better.

Public facilities are usually marked as male or female rather than all-gender.

You won’t find all-gender changing rooms in public swimming pools or geothermal lagoons like Sky Lagoon in Reykjavik, either.

The Blue Lagoon claims to have a nonbinary changing area, but on my most recent visit, I wasn’t able to find it.

Being made to use restrooms and changing areas that don’t fit our gender identities can be stressful for queer and trans travelers.

I’m optimistic that more places will include all-gender facilities in the future, so that trans and non-binary travelers can fully enjoy Iceland’s hot springs.

Ring Road Trip Itineraries

The Ring Road is the main road in Iceland. It runs around the entire perimeter of the country.

Planning a Ring Road trip around Iceland takes you right to the country’s highlights. Thundering waterfalls, black sand beaches, natural hot springs, erupting geysers, unique rock formations and adorable Icelandic horses are just a few of the things you’ll encounter while on a Ring Road trip.

While you can drive around the entirety of Iceland in less than a week, you’ll miss out. My recommendation is to choose to spend more time in fewer locations.

Select one or two regions of Iceland to explore and take your time. These Ring Road self-drive itineraries replicate my exact route in north Iceland and south Iceland.

Both of these self-drive tours were taken in winter, so I’ve also thrown in a packing list to help you prepare for the winter weather. I may be biased coming from the Northeast, but honestly – winter in Iceland was not as cold as I was expecting.

See the Northern Lights in Iceland

Everyone should experience seeing the northern lights at least once in their lives. And Iceland is an ideal place to view the auroras.

Since Iceland is near the Arctic Circle, it has strong geomagnetic activity.

The island’s small size and remote location mean there’s little light pollution to get in the way.

While there are tour companies that will take you to prime aurora viewing spots in Iceland, I’ve been able to see purple and green auroras dancing in the sky just by walking outside my Airbnb. While you can go chase the auroras, in my experience they will also find you!

When to Go

When is the best time to visit Iceland? That depends on your primary purpose for traveling.

I’ve visited Iceland in winter twice. I’m partial to winter for three reasons:

  • Lower costs
  • Less crowds
  • Higher chance of seeing the northern lights

Iceland is an expensive country – one of the most expensive in the world, in fact.

Since it’s an island with a chilly climate, most foods are flown in rather than grown there. That means even a takeaway meal like a shawarma sandwich and fries will cost $20-$30 USD.

And gas prices are well over what I’m used to, even in pricey California!

Winter is the off-season in Iceland. Hotels, airfare and car rentals cost less than during the peak season, which is summer. So if you are looking to visit Iceland on a budget, winter is your best bet.

I haven’t been to Iceland in the summer months and I don’t plan to. While I would love to complete a Ring Road trip without having to worry about snow, I would hate to have the serenity of the landscape broken up by throngs of travelers flocking to Instagrammable views.

Spring and fall are shoulder seasons in Iceland. It’s cheaper and less crowded than in summer, but not as much of a deal as during winter. But if you hate the idea of driving in snow, consider visiting Iceland in spring or fall.

You’ll be able to see the northern lights from September though to April, although the odds are greater when days are shorter. This is because it needs to be dark out to see the aurora borealis!

Visiting Iceland in spring also means a chance to see the famous puffins, which congregate on the beaches of Iceland’s south coast.

How to Get Around Iceland

The best way to get around Iceland is by renting a car.

My personal recommendation is to go with a trusted car rental agency that operates in your country, rather than save a few dollars by choosing a cheap and unknown brand. I’ve had good luck renting cars in Iceland through Hertz and Enterprise.

Picking up a rental car in Iceland couldn’t be easier. Within a few minutes of exiting the airport, you can walk to your rental car and be on your way. And if sets your mind at ease about winter driving, all rental cars in Iceland come with snow tires in winter.

This also means you don’t need to pay for an off-road vehicle.

Is There public transportation in Iceland?

There is public transportation. However, it can be difficult to get around while only relying on buses and ferries. Iceland doesn’t have any trains.

Strรฆtรณ is Iceland’s bus service. They run buses throughout the country. It’s possible that you could get from place to place by bus. However, you wouldn’t be able to do any sightseeing once you arrived!

If you are doing guided tours with hotel pickups and drop-offs, this might work for you. But I wouldn’t recommend it. In my opinion, the best part of an Iceland vacation are all the random things you discover along the way, like cool rock formations and waterfalls.

Iceland has a ferry service running from the main island to small offshore islands including Viรฐey Island, Grรญmsey Island and Hrรญsey Island. You can explore these islands on foot during a day trip without needing your own ride.

There is a ridesharing service called Samferda. You may be able to arrange a shared ride (always chipping in for gas money of course). Iceland is known as a very safe destination for solo travelers, women and LGBTQ folks, so it’s extremely unlikely that you would have anything to worry about hopping into a local’s car.

Is Iceland Safe for LGBTQ Travelers?

Iceland is very safe for LGBTQ travelers. In fact, Iceland’s capital city of Reykjavik made our list of the best European cities for queer women because of its safety and inclusivity!

Iceland has LGBTQ legal protections and a very low crime rate. It’s actually the first place I ever Couchsurfed because of its strong record on solo female travel safety and LGBTQ friendliness!

LGBTQ Iceland Stories

A brown Icelandic horse standing facing the camera.