Steal My Itinerary: 7 Days in Martinique

Sparlking ocean waters with mountains in the distance on Martinique

Dreaming of a tropical escape where you can soak up sun, explore lush landscapes, and dive into vibrant culture? Martinique might be just the spot. This French Caribbean island has everything from lively Carnival celebrations to serene hikes and beachside relaxation. If you’re looking for a fun, LGBTQ-friendly place to get away from the chilly winters, Martinique offers beautiful beaches and a laid-back Caribbean vibe, with French influences.

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Is Martinique LGBTQ Friendly?

Martinique (and its sister island Guadeloupe) is classified as an overseas region of France. This means Martinique follows French laws, including the French laws protecting LGBTQ rights.

This makes Martinique one of the best countries in the Caribbean to visit for gay and lesbian travelers.

LGBTQ Martiniquais are protected from discrimination on the basis of sexuality and gender identity in employment and housing. They have same-sex marriage rights, and can legally adopt children.

There are conservative areas within Martinique, including some of the more rural countryside. When I visited the island with my wife, we didn’t advertise our sexuality but we didn’t really hide it, either.

We didn’t go out to the gay bars and clubs like we sometimes do. We spent most of our vacation in smaller towns where there wasn’t much in the way of nightlife. When we were in the capital of Fort-de-France, we were enjoying the super LGBTQ-friendly, gender bending Carnival parade!

Want more LGBTQ-friendly events? Check out our guide to the best gay events worth traveling for!

When you travel around Martinique, you will probable be welcomed warmly by the local people.

It helps if you know some French (the official language).

My French skills were rusty when I visited, but I was able to find my way around without trouble. Many of the people I met spoke English (there were some exceptions, like a prickly Airbnb host – one of my first bad experiences with Airbnb).

Blue sky day with clouds in the distance at a beach in Martinique.

7 Days in Martinique: What to See and Do

Now that you know whether Martinique is safe if you’re LGBTQ, let’s get into the fun stuff. Here’s everything I was able to see and do in a packed weeklong trip to Martinique.

7 days in Martinique is enough to balance relaxing by the beach with sightseeing. If you have more time off, you can take the itinerary at a leisurely pace or add another excursion.

I was traveling on a tight budget at the time. I used both public transit and a rental car to save money. I’d strongly recommend getting a car the whole time you’re there so you can get around on your own without waiting for the bus. But if you’d prefer to save money, you can recreate most of this trip without renting a car by using public transit and arrange a couple of longer Martinique day trips that include transportation.

Day 1: Arrival and Fort-de-France Sights

Morning: Arrive in Fort-de-France, Martinique

Fort-de-France, Martinique’s capital, is known for its blend of French-Caribbean culture, vibrant markets, and historic sites like Fort Saint Louis. Stay in the city center to be walkable to everything, then once you drop your bags at your hotel, explore on foot!

  • This convenient service connects the airport to the city center
  • It’s an affordable option, with a single ride costing only 1.50 euros
  • Remember to purchase tickets from machines at the station, as they’re not sold on the bus

Afternoon: Explore Fort-de-France

  • La Savane park: A perfect spot for people-watching and getting a feel for local life. The park is lined with restaurants and cafes, making it an ideal place to relax and soak in the atmosphere.
  • Schoelcher Library: Wander inside this beautiful library to admire the architectural details. It’s free to visit and quiet and cool inside.
  • Fort St Louis: This historic fortress offers a fascinating tour and panoramic views of the city.

Evening: Enjoy French-Caribbean Cuisine

  • Head to Le Vieux Foyal Bar & Restaurant for dinner. The restaurant serves French Caribbean dishes and lots of fresh caught seafood. Order a rum drink like the classic ‘ti punch (which stands for petit punch) to accompany your meal.

Day 2: Fort-de-France to Anses-d’Arlet

Get your bearings in Fort-de-France on a food and history walking tour that was one of my favorite activities in Martinique!

Morning: Food Tour in Fort-de-France

  • This food and history walking tour of Fort-de-France is an excellent way to immerse yourself in the local culture and cuisine โ€“ and it’s vegan and vegetarian friendly! This was one of my favorite experiences in Martinique…a great way to try new foods and get a handle on the small, walkable city, so I could explore on my own for the rest of my stay.
  • You’ll visit the Grand Marchรฉ, the local outdoor food market, and learn about traditional foods, spices and flavors (check out local fruit and herbs in the photos below)
  • Your guide will tell you about Martinique’s history and present-day culture
  • Along the way you’ll stop for snack breaks include artisanal ice cream, traditional pastries, empanadas, and fresh-pressed sugarcane juice โ€“ all bought from local vendors, with flexible options if you’re plant-based like me

Book your Martinique food tour

Green and yellow bananas at the Grande Marchรฉ in Fort de France.
Herbs piled in a woven basket
Pastries behind a display case.

Evening: Travel to Charming Beach Town of Anses-d’Arlet

  • Rent a car or take the local bus (3-4 euros) to this charming seaside village with access to beaches
  • Settle into your accommodation and head out to dinner

Day 3: Anses-d’Arlet Beaches

Anses d’Arlet is a picturesque fishing village charm. It’s walkable to stunning black sand beaches, large white sand beaches, and a cute downtown area with locals hops, beach bars, and restaurants. If you’ve always wanted to snorkel with turtles like me, get excited…

Anses D'Arlet beach at sunset with people sunbathing and swimming.

Morning: Scuba or snorkel tour in Anses D’Arlet

  • Both Alpha Plongee and Paradis Plongee offer excellent introductory dives, allowing you to explore Martinique’s vibrant underwater world. You’ll have a short lesson on the beach, put on your scuba gear, then boat to nearby reefs. The crystal-clear waters around Anses-d’Arlet are perfect for scuba beginners. If you’re more of an experienced diver, consider a scuba diving trip to Diamant (The Diamond), a short drive away.
  • Not into scuba diving? Check out kayak, snorkel, and sailing day trips in Martinique.

Afternoon: Relax at Grande Anse d’Arlet beach

Spend the afternoon on a lounge chair at Grande Anse d’Arlet beach.

The waters are crystal clear and calm, ideal for swimming. We snorkeled in the ocean and saw so many colorful fish!

Evening: Dinner in Grande Anse D’Arlet

  • Eat outdoors in this beautifully designed restaurant opposite the beach. Ti Sable offers Caribbean cuisine and cocktails, plus live music.

Day 4: Explore Black Sand Beaches and Local Fishing Villages

Anses d’Arlet is gorgeous in its own right. If you want to relax on the beach and do nothing at all, be my guest. But if you always like to know what’s around the corner, today takes you to small towns in the surrounding area where you’ll enjoy beautiful black sand beaches, a powerful moving memorial to enslaved people, and the vibrant local culture.

Black sand beach in Martinique, with palm trees and rocks

Morning: Anse Noir

  • The black sand beach offers a unique landscape. It’s great for swimming and snorkeling, with the option to rent kayaks for further exploration. When I snorkeled here, I saw teeny squid!

Afternoon: Head to Diamant

  • Drive or take the bus to Diamant, which means Diamond. Le Diamant has a wide, expansive beach with a small strip of restaurants and shops to explore. Between Diamant and Anses d’Arlet lies the Anse Cafard Slave Memorial. The public art piece tells the stories of enslaved people who were rescued from a shipwreck offshore, and honors the enslaved people who perished. It’s powerful and moving โ€“ one of my favorite experiences in Martinique.

Evening: Delicious Dinner and Cocktails

  • L’Escale was one of my favorite restaurants in Martinique! They specialize in fish dishes, but they have some fresh plant-based sides and incredible cocktails, too!

Day 5: Drive the Rainforests of Martinique

As much as I loved the beaches of Martinique, the north of the island was incredible to visit. The rocky volcanic soil is perfect for growing crops like bananas and sugarcane, which is turned into rum agricole. If you’ve been enjoying those tropical drinks, Martinique’s rum is their secret ingredient!

Bottles of rum lined up on a bar.

Morning: Return to Fort-de-France

Return to Fort-de-France and make your way north, stopping at the beautiful Balata Gardens (Le Jardin de Balata) on your way. I took the bus back to Fort-de-France then picked up a rental car for the journey to Saint Pierre because I was trying to save money.

We’ve all been there…speaking of which, compare prices and reserve your rental car in advance to avoid being overcharged!

  • Balata Gardens: This private botanical garden showcases the island’s lush flora with beautiful palm gardens and a canopy walk. The best part, though, is the incredible homemade ice cream. While I absolutely loved the tropical plants, I still daydream about the chocolate ice cream I enjoyed after my visit, made with local Martiniquan cacao.

Afternoon: Follow the N3 to Saint Pierre

  • The road north passes up and over volcanic mountains. The roads are super windy with lots of exposed curves. Driving in Martinique at dusk was one of the scariest things I’ve ever done, so please learn from my mistakes and leave plenty of time to arrive before dark!

Evening: Explore St Pierre Ruins

  • Saint Pierre was Martinique’s cultural capital up until 1902, when Mount Pelรฉe erupted and absolutely destroyed the town. Wander the ruins of the old town theater and Quartier du Figuier for a glimpse into the past. Step into the prison cell where Ludger Sylbaris, who claimed to be the only survivor of the Mont Pelee eruption, was locked in solitary confinement during the eruption. The underground cell saved Sylbaris’s life, but he was badly burned in the eruption. It was an absolutely haunting experience to step into his cell!

Day 6: Hike Mount Pelee or Presqu’รฎle de la Caravelle, Followed by a Rum Distillery Tour

Hike along coastal bluffs for incredible ocean views, or get a new perspective on St. Pierre with a hike up to the summit of the famous volcano.

Morning: Mount Pelรฉe hike

  • Mount Pelee is still an active volcano. The climb to the top is challenging but rewarding hiking.
  • Note:  The trail is steep, with a mix of stairs and rock scrambling, and can be slick with condensation. If it’s rained, the trail can be very slippery. Wear study hiking shoes and DO NOT HIKE the trail if it has rained recently. The hike takes about 2 hours each way, and morning offers the best chance of clear skies at the top.

Afternoon: Musรฉe Volcanologique:

  • After lunch head to the volcano museum, to learn more about the 1902 eruption that devastated Saint Pierre.

Alternative Hike: Presqu’รฎle de la Caravelle

  • The remote peninsula of Presqu’รฎle de la Caravelle is a great alternative hike if you don’t want to tackle Pelee. We chose this one because it had recently rained, and we didn’t want to slip on the volcano trail.
  • Trails wind through dry forest, mangroves, and coastal bluffs, showing off dramatically different ecosystems. As you hike, look out at the ruins of Chรขteau Dubuc, a former sugar plantation.
  • It takes around 2-3 hours to hike the trails. Since the peninsula is remote, do what I did and pack a picnic lunch. You can eat it on one of the rocks along the ocean.
Dirt trails through grass fields at Presqu'รฎle de la Caravelle
Views of the Atlantic Ocean from Presqu'รฎle de la Caravelle

Evening: Distillery Neisson

  • Distillery Neisson has been operating since 1931 and has received many awards. A tasting here offers a chance to sample some of the island’s finest rums made the traditional way, with sugarcane. I loved the white rum I brought back from here.

Not renting a car? Book a day trip to St. Pierre and the north coast. Day trips combine rum tastings, historical attractions, and blank send beaches PLUS transportation to and from your Fort-de-France hotel!

Day 7: Return to Fort-de-France for a Joyous Carnival Parade

During Carnival, the island comes alive with colorful parades, energetic music, and dancing in the streets. Itโ€™s a chance to see Martiniqueโ€™s unique blend of African, French, and Caribbean traditions on full display, with elaborate costumes, lively performances, and a contagious sense of joy โ€“ all the more vibrant when I visited because France had recently won the World Cup. Pop-up costume vendors sell sequined outfits and feather boas if you want to adorn yourself for the event. Or you can head to the downtown area early and grab a spot on the sidewalk to watch the festivities unfold.

Morning: Return to Fort-de-France

Make your way to Fort-de-France, check into your hotel, and get ready to enjoy Carnival.

Afternoon and Evening: Carnival parade

  • Watch the parade, then join in as it passes you!
  • Many local businesses close down for Carnival. It might be a good idea to eat at your hotel, if it has a restaurant, or grab casual street food from the park, which is what we did.
Black man wearing a gold cape, with gold glitter body paint

Dreaming of a winter getaway? Martinique is one of the most inclusive Caribbean islands you can visit. It’s not only safe, it’s LGBTQ friendly!

While I traveled there with my partner, I would also recommend Martinique for gay solo travelers. The country is small enough to get around by car or public transit, and people are friendly.

This 7 days in Martinique itinerary gives you the perfect mix of Martiniqueโ€™s nature, culture, and time to unwind. Youโ€™ll hike, hit beautiful beaches, and dive into local traditions like Carnival. Martiniqueโ€™s unique blend of French and Caribbean vibes, diverse landscapes, and friendly, welcoming spirit โ€“ with plenty of opportunities to enjoy French Caribbean cuisine and amazing local rum.